71

There are remote camps, and then there is Desert Queen Baths.

Hidden deep within Karlamilyi National Park in Western Australia’s far eastern Pilbara, this is the sort of place that takes some serious effort to reach — hundreds of kilometres from the nearest fuel, along rough and unmaintained tracks, in one of the most isolated national parks in Australia.

For Gary Barten, that isolation is part of what makes it so special.

Gary and his wife Christine have visited Desert Queen Baths three times, travelling by 4WD and off-road camper trailer. On their June 2024 visit they camped with friends and once again found the sort of country that makes the long journey worthwhile.

Desert Queen Baths at a Glance

• Location: Karlamilyi National Park, Western Australia
• Nearest major supply points: Marble Bar from the north / Newman from the south
• Cost: Free camping at the time of Gary’s visit
• Camp style: Remote bush camping
• Facilities: None
• Access: High-clearance 4WD essential
• Suitable for: Properly equipped 4WDs and off-road camper trailers
• Not suitable for: Caravans
• Communications: Remote communications such as satellite phone or Starlink strongly recommended
• Visited: June 2024
• Gary’s verdict: Absolutely worth returning to

Desert Queen Baths

Karlamilyi National Park sits in an extraordinarily remote part of Western Australia, bordered by the Gibson Desert to the east and the Little Sandy Desert to the south.

Desert Queen Baths is probably the best-known camping area within the park, although “popular” is relative out here. Its isolation, distance and challenging access mean relatively few travellers ever make the journey.

The campground itself has four large areas where you can set up camp, with the permanent waterholes of Desert Queen Baths an easy walk away.

“With exception to heading deep into the desert, you would be hard pressed to find a more isolated campground.”

And judging by Gary’s photos, it is one hell of a reward for getting there.

Amazing Waterholes

The permanent waterholes sit deep within a spectacular red-rock gorge, surrounded by the rugged Pilbara landscape.

The main pools are an easy walk from camp, and the water is very cold — but, as Gary puts it, pretty refreshing on a hot day.

Those wanting to explore further can walk and rock scramble deeper into the gorge, where more pools can be found tucked amongst the rock formations.

It is the contrast that makes the place remarkable: permanent water surrounded by some of the driest and most isolated country in Australia.

Getting There

Desert Queen Baths is seriously remote, and getting there is part of the adventure. This is not somewhere to simply punch into the GPS and head off without proper preparation.

GPS coordinates: -22.4640530, 122.2616920

View Desert Queen Baths on Google Maps

From Marble Bar

For travellers approaching from the north, Marble Bar is the last available fuel.

From Marble Bar, head east approximately 150 km along Ripon Hills Road, then turn left onto the Telfer Mine Road. Follow the unsealed road for approximately 145 km until reaching the Telfer Mine security gatehouse.

At the gatehouse, your details will be recorded and mine staff will arrange an escort through the mine to the northern starting point of the Karlamilyi National Park track.

From there, head south along the track for approximately 92 km until reaching a sign marked DQB. Take the left track at the turnoff. Desert Queen Baths is approximately another 18 km from here.

From Newman

Gary and Christine have only travelled through Karlamilyi National Park from north to south, so they can’t provide the same first-hand detail for the southern approach.

For travellers approaching from the south, the last available fuel is at Newman. The route is via Marble Bar–Nullagine Road, turning right onto Ethel Creek–Jigalong Road, then left onto Billinooka–Walgun Road and right onto the Talawana Track.

The southern entry point to Karlamilyi National Park is approximately 320 km from Newman, with Desert Queen Baths further north inside the park.

Important: These directions are based on Gary and Christine’s own travels through the area. Track conditions, mine access arrangements and national park access can change. Always check current conditions and access requirements before travelling, and don’t rely solely on Google Maps or online navigation in this country.

This Is Serious 4WD Country

Karlamilyi National Park has no facilities and its remote tracks are not maintained like ordinary roads.

Gary encountered everything from large washouts and heavy corrugations to soft river sand, rocky sections and narrow tracks where scratches to your vehicle or camper are a very real possibility.

A reliable high-clearance 4WD is essential.

Gary considers the trip suitable for properly equipped off-road camper trailers, but not suitable for caravans.

Good remote-area communications are also important. Gary recommends carrying something such as Starlink or a satellite phone, along with enough fuel, food, water and supplies to comfortably deal with the distances involved.

Out here, careful planning isn’t optional.

No Facilities Means No Facilities

Desert Queen Baths is a genuine bush camp.

There are no toilets, showers, powered sites or other campground facilities. Travellers need to arrive completely self-sufficient and be prepared to leave the place exactly as they found it.

For the right traveller, though, that is precisely the appeal.

A Camel Encounter on the Way Out

As if the country itself wasn’t memorable enough, Gary and Christine had another experience while leaving camp.

They came across a large herd of feral camels on the track.

The camels weren’t particularly bothered by the vehicles, allowing Gary and the group to get remarkably close and capture some great footage before continuing on their way.

It’s the sort of encounter that could happen only in country this remote — and another memory from a place Gary and Christine have now made the considerable effort to visit three times.

Would Gary Go Back?

Absolutely.

“We have visited three times. It’s a great adventure.”

That probably says more about Desert Queen Baths than anything else.

Getting there requires planning. The tracks can be difficult. There are no facilities. Fuel and supplies are hundreds of kilometres away.

And they’ve gone back three times.

Gallery

Thanks to Gary Barten

This campground yarn and the accompanying photographs were shared by Gary Barten, who travels Australia with his wife Christine and their two dogs.

Gary has a particular eye for the quieter camps, remote tracks and places many travellers drive straight past — although Desert Queen Baths might be taking the word “remote” to another level.

A quick note before you travel

Remote-area access, road and track conditions, national park requirements, fire restrictions, weather, water availability and other conditions can change significantly.

These notes are based on Gary’s experience, including his June 2024 visit, and are shared as a traveller’s account rather than current access instructions.

Always check current information with the relevant authorities before attempting the journey into Karlamilyi National Park.